STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #4) Combining Gel With Fiber Wraps

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #4) Combining Gel With Fiber Wraps
ADDING FIBERWRAPS TO GEL NAILS

Explanation of gels and fiber: No, I am not using a gel w/ fiber already in it (like LE’s Fabrique). I am referring to sandwiching fiber-wraps like silk or fiberglass in between layers of gel (ANY U-V GEL!)....The fiber I like is Star Nails silk in the rollout box dispenser, and I like my stores scissors www.gelnails.com, cut well, and cheap enough to throw out (rather than have sharpened) when they get dull (actually I retire them to the "paper forms dept", for cutting out the backs of and customizing forms as needed..... I have an acrylic clear box form holder/dispenser (from LCN), and I just tuck the scissors in next to the roll.

I lay down one coat of REGULAR gel then cure 1 complete cycle. Then I place and PAT down a piece of fiber (glass or silk) into tacky residue until it disappears, (pick up fiber with "sticky" gel nail brush),and cure again (about 1/2 a reg. cure). Then I lay down another coat of gel over this as usual, adding any arches, etc, that may be needed, and cure again as usual. Now, finish as usual: wipe w/ alcohol and shape and bevel, buff etc....

1) When using fiber in conjunction w/ white free edge gel over a form (vs using over the natural nail or a tip w/ clear gel)....1st apply form, apply 1 thin coat of gel to remaining nail, cure 1 full cycle, apply white gel to area needed----entire free edge, chipped corner, etc., cure 1 full cycle, apply piece of fiber large enough to bridge from extended area (or cracked area) back over to rest of nail (but not too big to hang off nail or touch sidewalls or cuticle or not able to lay down!), pat in to tacky residue from last cure until it disappears, cure again to cement in place (30 sec's or so), now continue w/ at least one more coat of gel as usual.

2) Fiber MUST always be sandwiched between layers of gel...my preferred method is to lay it into cured gel residue, re-cure, and apply another layer.... Some manufacturers will tell you to lay it into an uncured layer of gel...well try it, you'll see what happens...gel floats to top and you have fibers sticking out, fiber slides around before gel cures, gel ends up in sidewalls because you spend too much time fiddling with the fiber and the gel is already MOVING! Also, I worry about GEL NOT COMPLETELY CURING BECAUSE OF SOME OF THE U-V LIGHT BEING OBSCURED OR REFLECTED AWAY BY THE FIBERGLASS (or silk). For these reasons, I personally like to place my fiber into CURED GEL ONLY. (However, as always, and with any technique... you may find another way of doing it that you like better and that works better for you personally!)

3) Hint: to remove a lot of extra gel that may have run a round on the form, (after it has cured) use STRAIGHT (not regular curved) BLADED toe nail clippers (I carry them in my store here if you can’t find them elsewhere or locally) to remove excess gel easily(PUT ON THOSE SAFETY GLASSES (which you should ALREADY have on anyway, if you need a reminder--- and I also carry those in the store!!!!!!), AND WATCH THE CLIENTS SKIN!) Now, straighten and taper sidewalls appropriately, without a ton of filing!

This procedure I've described is great for:

1)whole nail extensions (short ones, 25% or so), at F/S or repairs at fills (done w/ either white gel for F/S or even clear gel on forms (for 1 nail or repair).... the fiber clouds up the gel just enough to be un-noticeable on short extensions or corner chips.... or missing sidewalls....

2)cracks that go all the way thru to the natural nail bed (wipe/ FLUSH crack w/ alcohol 1st----yes, it will burn, so she (client may want to delay procedure, oooouch, the pain they/we will endure for their/our nails!), and be sure there are no other underlying pathogens to lock in, and seal w/ the tiniest bit of nail glue first (crazy glue/nail glue is safe for skin in small amts, in fact INVENTED for skin for soldiers in Vietnam to prevent infection of bleeding injuries while in the jungle and too far from med station to survive bacteria in jungle alive!). This will prevent gel from seeping into crack onto skin where it won't cure and only irritate! So sanitize, glue, 1 coat gel, cure, fiber, set, more gel, cure, wipe, and finish work!!!!!

3) Even nails that are completely broken off can use this procedure, use the tiniest bit of glue to hold broken nail piece to remaining nail., put a form under for support, and Voila--- re-attachment ---but be sure to add extra fiber to sidewalls as well or crack will re-start and take over eventually!)

4) Also good for sidewall repairs w/ forms (nails that have become too "skinny" or tapered too close to stress area (hyponychium area), or for replacing chips missing off of corners of free edge, etc...

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #3) Fill-In Procedures/Maintenance of gel Nails

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #3) Fill-In Procedures/Maintenance of gel Nails

Lesson #3) Fill-In Procedures/Maintenance of gel Nails....

Gel Nails Fill-In: Basic Procedure.
No breaks or repairs needed, not with "pink and white" (or permanent French Manicure as I call it). Those fill-in lessons to come soon! (These procedures best when used with thin viscosity or 1-component type gels. For thicker viscosity or builder type gels, you will need to make some adaptations.) Remember, these are GENERIC instructions for you to use and adapt to your own personal style and product line. See your manufacturers guide for product specific application instructions and other pertinent info.

1) Standard Prep: Wash hands, sanitize, remove polish, push back cuticles, etc......

2) Shorten nails; with tip cutter (my method, straight across square for now, shaping of nail comes later), by hand file, or drill. Nails should be maintained at a steady and consistent length. Clients should be encouraged to pick their ideal length and then stick with it. That requires that the nails be shortened the amount that they grew between fill appointments.

3) Preliminary shaping of nails: Put preliminary shape into nails so that the rebalance filing done in the next step reflects the proper shape. I use my drill to quickly go through the nails and "round" them for those clients who wear them rounded or ‘squoval’, or any shape not squared (or do this step with a hand file if you don't use a drill)

4) Re-balance nail. File the entire top of the nail either by hand or with a drill (I prefer a drill). Arches need to be moved BACK so gel needs to be thinned and beveled at the free edge to accommodate the new arch -placement. Entire gel surface needs to be thinned (and shine removed for new gel to adhere), to keep nail from becoming too thick with application of additional gel. If using a drill use a medium diamond bit or sanding band on a mandrel. Carbides are overkill with gels!

5) Blend cuticle area. I use a diamond football bit (med) to help blend the outgrowth of the old gel. (Do NOT drill on the natural nail outgrowth with the drill)

6) If using a drill (electric file), I still go back through the cuticle area with a file to hand file and bevel the cuticle area, and remove shine from the natural nail outgrowth (because the drill is NOT used on the natural nail), be sure all cuticle and contaminants are removed to ensure good adhesion.

7) Final shaping of nail: Tailor and taper (as needed) the sidewalls and put the final shape into the free-edge. Hold client's hand facing you, vertically, to really see the shaping.

8) Dust nail thoroughly (I use a surgical scrub brush, see hints and tips and FAQ's for more info about this.)

9) Pre-prime and prime as necessary or needed. (i.e. pH balancers, or scrub fresh, or wiping with alcohol.... then primers such as MAP, BX, or primer gels). If using a separate liquid primer (MAP or BX), apply to new nail growth only and let it dry. If using a primer gel, apply to new growth area and cure in U-V light as recommended by your manufacturer. (See full-set lesson and acrylics page for instructions, and more detailed info on types of primers, how to choose, and how to use.)

10) Apply 1 thin coat of gel to nail. Concentrate on new growth area, and "scrub" the gel in. Then pull gel out over entire nail. This coat is very thin. CURE in U-V light.

11) Apply 2nd (and last) coat of gel* more generously than 1st. Add arches** with this coat of gel. Cure.*Let gel brush float the gel on and be sure to seal end of nails by letting brush "fall off" the end of the nail as you apply. Be sure when applying this coat of gel to set your brush down just short of the cuticle, then push gel toward cuticle and pull back without ever lifting your brush. This will help to eliminate a ridge at the cuticle. **For more on how to add arches to gel see the full-set lesson.

12) Examine nails for flaws and re-apply any gel NOW if needed, otherwise, CLEANSE with cleanser or alcohol (99%). Set down lint-free wipe saturated with cleanser at the cuticle and pull away from cuticle, dropping off the free-edge.

13) Sidewall finishing: Lay the file in the grove, and pull out to be sure there is not gel in the groove and to taper the sidewalls for thickness as needed (very little if any!), and re-check free-edge shape.

14) Cuticle beveling: Gently bevel the cuticle area.

15) Check contour of top of nail, and file as needed.

16) Buff out nail to remove shine and do final contouring. (Polish sticks better to a "dull" surface than it does to the super high-gloss of a gel nail). Oily or wet buff at this time if that is your normal finishing procedure.

17) Send client to wash-up! Take her payment, book her next appointment, then polish her and send her to the dryers.

18) DONE! Total time: Super Pro=30 to 45 mins (not every tech achieves this time frame), Experienced= 45 to 60 mins, Intermediate= 50 mins to 1 hr 10 mins, Novice/Beginner= 60 minutes to 90 minutes! Regularly under 30 minutes? You are not doing a complete rebalance and you will pay the price later in total service break down!!!! (Also known as a "fluff fill-in”, basically nothing more than a buff and polish change. A disservice to the client and our industry!)

Look for more info to be added to this section soon!

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #2) Full-Set Sculpted Gel Nails With Forms.......

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #2) Full-Set Sculpted Gel Nails With Forms.......

Part A: Using clear gels only
Part B: Using White Free Edge

PART A) The following "Full-Set with Clear Gel" method can be used for "transfers"*, full-sets, overlays, or fill-ins with major service breakdown!(*Transfers from acrylic to gel or from one tech to another)
1)Prep natural nails as usual AND/OR file off old product, and file entire nail thin and flush, be careful to NOT file on the natural nail.

2)Do rest of prep work (dust, prime, etc), apply forms. (Do not shorten her natural nails or "even" them out. Keep as much of each natural nail free edge as you can, you will "even" them up with the gel as needed.)

3)1 coat of gel on entire nail and slightly out onto form. Cure. (see gel nail lesson above for gel application methods)If you need to actually build a SHORT free edge, draw a box with a line of gel from one sidewall straight out to length desired and back down to meet other sidewall, then "pull" gel back and forth to fill in box thinly.

4)Lay down fiber from mid nail bed out past free edge onto form (to help "hold" the slight extension, and to reinforce stress zone of the nail to help prevent future breakage). Pat fiber in till "gone". Cure.

5)Lay down coat #2 of gel, over entire nail again and out onto form as in first coat. Add slight arching and top "C" curve (convex)for strength, beauty, and natural look, by using "ribbon" or "tail" method with "thin" gel (described in gel nail lesson above)or building it with builder gels (depends on the brand gel you use!). Cure.

6)Remove forms. Apply 3rd coat of gel (final coat usually in a full set, some techs need to use more coats though if they lay down their gel too thin),with more arching as needed. Cure.

7)Cure upside down one cycle. Cleanse nails.

8)Use straight edge toe nail clippers to clip off any "stray" gel to make free edge shape, and sidewalls straight, or file by hand.

9)Shape and finish nails as usual, shape free edge, perfect sidewall taper, bevel cuticle, sidewalls and free edge, adjust top surface arches etc, use drill for concave of "C" curve as needed(Underside of nail if gel seeped under forms), buff till smooth as you would any acrylic nail. (Buff out and polish, or buff out and a gloss coat if preferred) 

PART B) Building Full-Set Gel Nails Over Forms With WHITE Free-Edge Gel.....
1) Prep nails as usual, prime, apply forms.

2) Apply 1 coat of gel to natural nail only. Cure.

3) Apply white gel onto form and overlapping natural nail as needed (depends on the length of ther natural nails), being sure to make a nice smile line with the white. Use the "drawing a box" method described above to make the white free edge on the form.

4) Optional: Add fiber at this time if desired, bridging it over the clear onto the white. (see above and below lessons for more step-by-steps on adding fiber to gels). Cure fiber for at least 30 sec before continuing.

5) Apply 2nd coat of clear gel to entire nail (clear nail bed and white sculpted nail on form), adding arching as appropriate. Cure.

6) Remove forms. Apply 3rd (final) coat of gel with more arching as needed. Cure.

7) Cure nails upside down for 1 complete cycle.

8) Cleanse nails with cleanser or 99% alcohol on a lint free wipe. Do not rub residue into skin. Lay down the wipe at cuticle, and pull off nail in one firm stroke. Move to a new section of wipe and continue with other nails. Don't forget to wipe the backs of the gel extensions as well when needed!

9) Do finish work as above (shape, taper, contour, bevel, buff, etc).....

10) Now either polish or apply gloss coat!

GLOSS COAT Application:
After doing finish work to ensure nails are perfect, you must also remove all glossy surfaces remaining. Dust very well. Apply gloss coat thinly and evenly, examine nails carefully for full coverage and to be sure there are no streaks or air bubbles. When the nail is perfect CURE. Wipe with cleanser and you are done. For MINOR imperfections in gloss coat use a 3 or 4 way buffer gently in the spot of the imperfection. For MAJOR imperfections in gloss coat, buff it out and start over again on the affected nails.

Gel Gloss Coat over Airbrushing:
(WARNING, THIS IS NOT AS EASY AS IT SOUNDS!!!!) Be sure paint is very dry, and apply gel with brush parallel to the nail and a very light touch, being sure to pull out and over the free edge. Cure and wipe with cleanser. To remove, simply file it off (gel and paint) as you prepare for the next fill. Between fills, simple polish over it.
This lesson and others are "under construction" and will be added here as soon as they are ready!.....See lesson #4 for some ideas and insight into this procedure in the meantime!

    

source: nailspalsh.com

Oooooh Prety - Nail art Design Glitzy!

Oooooh Prety - Nail art Design Glitzy!
There was even one to match the nail vanish I had on which is a peachy/coral colour so I thought I would come up with a design that was extra glittery!

The idea with this design is that the glitter is fuller at the tip and less as you go down the nail, giving it a gradient effect.  To get this look I applied Orange Soda from 17 as my base colour and then using a gold glitter nail art paint I dabbed it on to the nail, whilst this was still wet I tapped some burnt orange glitter on top. To get the gradient effect I just applied more to the tip with the orange glitter and then as you look down the nail it fades out to the gold.
On my ring finger I added a couple of gold nail gems - as you can never have too much glitter!  You could add the nail gems to all your fingers, do what ever takes your fancy!

I did the same design using a few different colours so you could see what it would look like, they are on a nail art wheel (I didn't feel like having multi coloured nails!)

I tried to take the photos in different lights but unfortunately my camera hasn't picked it up very well so sorry they aren't the best quality, I think it may be the glitter?!
For these I used  Done Out In Deco (lilac) with purple glitter and Purple nail gems, Russian Navy (navy blue) with lilac glitter and light purple nail gems and Cuckoo For This Colour (green) with silver glitter and clear nail gems.  All the varnishes are from OPI.

This design will work with any colour so you really can put your creative spin on it.

What do you think?  Do you have any glittery nail designs to share?

Oooooh Prety - Nail art Design French Leopard

Oooooh Prety - Nail art Design French Leopard
Its such a great colour for summer and coral is one of my all time favourite colours!

I had intended to just paint my nails in the coral shade but I decided that wasn't much fun so I came up with this design instead!

I used the Diva Coral shade for my base, then using Konad plate M57 I stamped on a leopard design with a black nail art paint, then to create the black french tip I used Obscurity from OPI.

This is a super easy design to do, you can put your creative spin on it and change the colour.  If you give it a go I would love to see the results so send me some pics!

If you would like to see how I achieved this look take a peek at my tutorial video.